The Camino Ingles is one of the Caminos de Santiago that pilgrims
from all over the world take every year. They journey on foot from France,
Portugal, and all over Spain to their final destination- the holy city of
Santiago de Compestela. A lot of people make the journey for religious
purposes. For them it is a spiritual journey. Although I consider myself a
spiritual person, I have to admit, for me, I thought of it as more of a
physical challenge. It turned out to be spiritual though. I learned a lot about
Spain, a lot about myself, and a lot about the kindness of strangers.
The Camino Ingles is the typical journey that pilgrims from
the UK, Ireland, and the Scandinavian countries used to make when they landed
at the port in Ferrol in the north of Spain. From Ferrol the journey is 120
kilometers through beautiful northern Spain.
I started in Ferrol alone and got lost before I had even
left the city. A jogger ran by and yelled, “Peregrino, para ya, para ya!” Which
means “Pilgrim, to the right!” I don’t know why but a lot of times instead of
using “de recha” and “izquierda” (the words for “right” and “left”) they often
say “para ya” and “para ca”. It seems a little crazy to do the Camino alone in
a foreign country, but I have enough confidence in my Spanish now to get by
with only minor difficulties. A lot of the frustration of not being able to
communicate is now gone.
I met my Andalusian friends just outside of Ferrol. I was
planning on staying in the albergue (backpacker’s hut) in Neda but we arrived
there early and my friends offered to call and see if there was an extra room
in the hostel where they were staying for the night. There was a room so I kept
walking with them. When we got to Fene (18 km) we had a delicious dinner and
did some sightseeing before going to bed.
The next day it rained on us almost the entire way from Fene
to Betanzos (28 km). Luckily we all had ponchos. My new friends were two
couples- Fernando and Loreto, and Tamara and Pedro. Loreto and I started
getting blisters first because we were both hiking in new shoes. She taught me
to puncture and lace them with a sewing needle so they didn’t keep filling up,
and also how to clean them properly. That day there was a huge
city party in Betanzos and we went out to look around. It was a beautiful city
situated in a valley and it was buzzing with people.
Day three from Betanzos to Bruma (29 km) was basically a
blur of pain, but I remember some beautiful sights as well. My feet were
bleeding and oozing puss and I was overjoyed when we made it to the alburgue in
Bruma. Bruma is home to about 40 people and there is not a store in all of the
little village. We were the first backpackers of the day to make it to the
albergue and the caretaker talked our ears off. Luckily we were able to order
food from a nearby town and they delivered it to us for both lunch and dinner.
That night we sat around the table, compared blisters, and chatted with all the
other backpackers about the journey. I was the only English speaker, but they
all thought I spoke Spanish really well. I still feel like I don’t speak it
well, but I am overjoyed that people can understand me and I can understand
them.
After Bruma we trekked to Siguiero (27 km). We had dinner
and laughed a lot, bought more bandaids, and then prepared for our final
stretch of the journey the next day. At this point my feet felt like death. So
I constructed makeshift cushions from sponges and taped them to my feet the
next morning. My feet felt better for about 6 km and then began to ache
tremendously again. But it didn’t matter because we were almost there. We
waltzed into Santiago at 11 a.m., went to Mass and received our Compestelas. I
had one last dinner with my new friends before I caught the train up to A
Coruña.
It was such a memorable and wonderful experience and even
though there was pain, I got lost, and I had no idea what to expect, everything
worked out for the best. It’s a strange parallel to life when you think about
it. Sometimes you have to start the journey alone, knowing nothing and no one.
When you take that step into the dark you can’t think about the what ifs and
the maybes. There will be pain. There will be joy. There will be laughter and
friends. Take the step. It will all be worth it.
In other news... The boyfriend made it to London and is now training with team U.S.A. in Birmingham. He throws the 8th and 11th of August! CHEER LOUD AND PROUD! USA USA USA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I go to Scotland in a week and then London on the 6th of August. Back to the states the 15th!
In other news... The boyfriend made it to London and is now training with team U.S.A. in Birmingham. He throws the 8th and 11th of August! CHEER LOUD AND PROUD! USA USA USA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I go to Scotland in a week and then London on the 6th of August. Back to the states the 15th!
My friend Laia from Barcelona in A Coruña. |
A Coruña at night. |
Images from the trail. Mis cuatro amigos! |
Pedro and Tamara |
The beach I wake up to every morning in A Coruña. I left the Mediterranean for the equally awesome Atlantic Coast of northern Spain. |